Axolotls Tulsa

Ammonia and Nitrites are byproducts of axolotl waste and are toxic to your axolotl. When a new tank is set up, the water needs to be cycled to populate healthy bacteria, before adding an axolotl.  The bacteria perform the job of removing ammonia and nitrites from the aquarium water.  Regular testing should be done weekly to monitor ammonia, nitrite & nitrate levels.  When nitrates levels rise, a water change is needed.  Tank cycling can be accomplished quickly by adding a seeded filter and mature aquarium water.  Once bacteria has been established it needs a food source such as pellets or axolotl waste.  Without a natural food source, the bacteria will die and the cycle will crash. For that reason we send our axolotls home at the same time the mature water and seeded filter are added to the tank.  In the event of a nitrite spike the tank can be dosed with a 4 times dose of Seachem Prime or Fritz Complete.  These products bind the nitrites temporarily making them too large to be absorbed into the blood stream. 

Nitrites enter the blood stream and bond with hemoglobin which carries oxygen.  The hemoglobin is converted to methyleglobin which does not carry oxygen. If there is too much methleglobin in the bloodstream the axolotl can’t take in oxygen, regardless of how much the water is oxygenated.  The condition can be detected by the presence of grey veins in the tail, gills and head.  The inability to absorb oxygen will reduce quality of life and decrease the lifespan of the axolotl.

Weekly perform a water change to vacuum dirt off the floor and remove 25% of the water.  For a 20 gallon tank, vacuum to fill one 5 gallon bucket.  For a 40 gallon tank, vacuum to fill two 5 gallon buckets.  Replace the water by adding 1 thread (1/4 teaspoon) of water conditioner and tap water to a 5 gallon bucket. We recommend Seachem Prime or Fritz Complete water conditioners. Water changes are very important.  It is the single most effective way to prevent illness.  Once an axolotl becomes very ill, it can difficult for them to recover.  Prevention is the best treatment.

Hang on back filters are not preferred for axolotl tanks.  They pour water into the tank which creates a current at the bottom. Axolotls are not swimmers and the constant movement is stressful.  We recommend sponge filters.  Clean the filter once or twice a month by placing it into a bucket of dirty aquarium water.  Squeeze it 12-20 times to remove dirt.  Don’t rinse with tap water, bacteria inside the filter is important to the cycle.

The best food for adult axolotls are european nightcrawlers, which we carry.  They can sometimes be found  at Petsmart or Academy. The axolotl eats by sucking food into its mouth and swallowing whole.  Food that is too large can cause impaction.   Gravel should be avoided as a substrate because it is easily sucked in along with the food and can also cause impaction.  Carnivore pellets are a nutritious snack that promote long, bright, fluffy gills.

Juvenile axolotls: 1-3 red wigglers or 1/2 european nightcrawler
Adults: 2 red wigglers daily, or 1 european nightcrawler (Red worm)

Hikari Sinking Carnivore Pellets, just a few a day. For juvenile(1-3)  and adult (5-7)

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Axolotls don't like too much light. Their eyes have adapted to low-light conditions, as they live in areas where the light levels are quite low, and usually, the plants on the water surface cover the water. Bright light also hinders their vision. We can try to replicate those conditions in our tanks as much as possible. It’s very important to place your axolotl tank away from direct sunlight which will also cause problems, by heating the water in the tank.   When using a light on the tank, keep it on a blue setting during the day, and off at night.  Limit white light to cleaning times.

If you have plants in your tank, they will need light to stay healthy.  Choose led lights that don't emit heat.  The best color is blue, as it is calming to the axolotl while still giving plants the light they need.  Since axolotl tanks are cool and dark, plant options are limited.  Our favorites are Java Fern & Anubia. The plants are beneficial for the axolotl tank in two ways.  First, they absorb some of the nitrates that will naturally occur in a properly cycled tank.  Second, the axolotls enjoy them by resting beneath them, swimming among them and sometimes sitting in them.  

It is not necessary to provide a tank mate for your axolotl.   If you want to add a second axolotl, the necessary tank size is 20 gallons per axolotl.  Most fish are not suitable for the axolotl tank.  Large fish may damage the axolotl gills.  Small fish may be mistaken as food.  The bony skeleton of the fish may cause injury or GI obstruction.  Tank mates that may be added are nano shrimp.  Be prepared for the shrimp to slowly disappear though.  

Axolotls are fully aquatic and should not be taken out of the water unless it is being moved to another location, or receiving medical treatment.  It is ok to handle them in the water with clean hands and a gentle touch.  Once your axolotl learns there is no danger, it is common for him to sit in your hand or hold onto a finger.  

Catappa leaf also known as the Indian Almond leaf is a safe treatment for axolotls that are in distress.  It works in two ways: by darkening the water to more closely mimic the natural environment therefore decreasing stress, and by releasing tannins and other beneficial ingredients into the water.  Studies done on catappa leaf have shown that it has healing benefits that can hep prevent fungal and bacterial infections.

There are two ways to use catappa leaf in a fish tank. The first is to simply drop a leaf-whole or shredded- into the fish tank and let it break down naturally. The second is to boil it in water and add the “tea” to the fish tank.

1. Tear a catappa leaf into large pieces and put in a pot.

2. Bring the water to a full boil,  then simmer for one minute.

3. Remove from heat and allow to cool to around the same temperature as the fish tank.

4. Pour the tea into the tank.

Fungal infections are common with axolotls.  It typically appears as fluffy white tufts on the gills or wound sites.  Left untreated the fungus is lethal.  Resist the temptation to pull the fungus off.  It is painful and will cause further damage.  There are treatments but be aware that many fish medications are toxic to axolotls.  Safe treatments for axolotls include Methylene Blue, Potassium Permanganate & Fritz Maracyn Oxy.  Our favorite treatment is Maracyn Oxy.  There are many that believe salt baths and fridging are effective ways to treat illness in axolotls.  We strongly disagree.  These treatments are harsh and sometimes further harm is caused.  If you feel that your axolotl is ill, you are invited to reach out to us.  

Many people ask us how do I know if my axolotl is healthy.  The first and easiest way to know if your axolotl is healthy is by looking at the gills.  Healthy axolotls have long gill stalks with fluffy filament on the back. If the gills lose their filament and start to shrink your axolotl is unwell.  Failure to correct it is fatal.  

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Ammonia symptoms:  loss of gill fluss, shrinking gills, bumps on the skin, discoloration of the skin.

Nitrite symptoms: grey veins throughout the body.

High Nitrate symptoms: shrinking gills, pink toes, rotting spots on the tail.

Impaction: swollen belly, loss of appetite, pink toes, rotting toes, red veins throughout body.